[Special - Roundtable Discussion]
The fashion culture of Shibuya departure to the world.
Young designers who operate in the axis of the "Fashion Week Tokyo"
Tianjin Yu /A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT
1979 Born in Osaka. Tobei to 04 years alone New York. 2006 Avant-garde Grand Prix. Serve the main pattern maker at 05-09 years NY collection brand Jen Kao. After returning to Japan, Shanghai, Taiwan, South Korea, Saudi Arabia, announced the Runway Show in Germany. 2012DHL Award winner. Responsible for the 2013 Mercedes-Benz uniform design.
Esumi YasushiShun's /Yasutoshi Ezumi
1981年広島生まれ。ロンドン、セントラルセントマーティンズ美術学校ファッション&テキスタイル科卒業。アレキサンダーマックイーン等コレクションブランドで経験を積む。2010 年、ブランド「Yasutoshi Ezumi」を開始。2011AWより東京コレクションにて発表。2013SS ANTEPRIMAとのコラボレーションラインANTEPRIMA + YEをミラノコレクションファッションショーにて発表。
Atsushi Nakajima /ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA
1978 Gifu born. 2004, Dobotoke. Jean Paul Gaultier assistant designer appointed. In 2009, Jean Paul Gaultier diffusion line head designer appointed. After returning home, the start of the brand "ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA". 2012, announced the 2012AW debut collection in the "Fashion Week in Tokyo". 2012, 3rd DHL designer Award.
“Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Tokyo” is held every March and October as the largest fashion event in Japan. This spring, a colorful show will be held at Shibuya Hikarie as the main venue from March 17 (Mon) to March 22 (Saturday), 2014. The event, which is based on the Tokyo Collection, can not be overlooked not only as a place to announce new works ahead of the season, but also as a chance for promising young designers to make presentations to the world. In this interview, young designers, Mr. Tian Yu, Ek Yasuharu and Ms. Atsushi Nakajima, who continue to work on “Fashion Week Tokyo”, were invited to talk freely in a round-table manner. What are the "confidence" and "problems" felt only by the three experienced in foreign countries? --- The difference between the fashion week of the world such as Paris and London and Tokyo, the revival of mode fashion, the identity as a Japanese, etc. We visited the "Culture Fashion Incubation" (Sakuraoka-cho, Shibuya-ku), a training facility for fashion designers who have three ateliers, and asked them carefully about their passionate thoughts.
_ Everyone, than to move into the young designer establishment support facilities "cultural fashion incubation" is, or is time around?
Esumi's:3 years ago, it is at the opening of here facility. Just when I was looking for a place to the exhibition, we learned to get information from people you know. Because there was also the timing is at the same time the office is also looking for, we filed an application immediately.
Tianjin's:I was also entered along with the Esumi kun.
Esumi's:Is from the old days Tianjin kun or the exhibition together, because it was well know relationship.
Nakajima:I'm slower than the two people, from two years ago. Japan Fashion Week (JFW) has entered is introduced from the side of the secretariat.
Do you tell the _ advantage of features and residents of this facility?
Nakajima:In addition to the facilities of the room of each designer, there is a small hall that can fashion show on the 11th floor.
Tianjin's:After that, it is the other side of this floor, rental space for exhibitions has been the hotel.
Esumi's:We once every six months, autumn summer using that venue, I have opened the exhibition of the autumn and winter.
Tianjin's:And a work space in addition to each room, business meeting space, a meeting space has been enhanced.
Esumi's:Of course the desirability of the location and facilities, because I feel Bill is like a luxurious community center, is the larger exchanges have in and out of a variety of people. There is also information exchange and irritation.
Nakajima:The main advantage is, that I be such as brand management advice and assistance. By it even I, was saved many times. In addition, since I worked much abroad, in a state that does not have at all know, such as the Draper's Toka factory in Japan when you return home. Also that it was possible to hear various from designers who are ahead in this facility, was very good.
_3 People but I think that's the same as a generation, what do you have in common?
Nakajima:I was worked in Paris, there is a common point that came back laden with experience abroad to three people both.
Tianjin's:Yes, after I also learned in Japan of school, I worked at Maison of New York.
Esumi's:I is London. Studying in the University of Central Saint Martins School of Art, as it is working in over there. Including the student I lived about six to seven years. So all three people, the country is different, but there is a foreign experience.
Tianjin's:I mean the background is different, it is where there is interesting.
Can you tell me the brand of the concept that each _ is launched?
Than Yasutoshi Ezumi 2014SS collection
Esumi's:Referred to as "" Yasutoshi Ezumi (Yasutoshi Ezumi) ", has been doing in their name to the crown. The concept is "LOGIC (logic)". Making a concept that makes sense, it makes the ladies wear. In addition, originally because I was focused on knitwear, it has specialized in Nitto air also by this brand.
Is _ Tianjin's brand?
Tianjin's:We are doing the brand "A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT (er degree Fahrenheit)." The origin of the name is what "temperature". -Used to have in Japan is "Celsius", in the United States I'm being used is "Fahrenheit (Westphalia high)". It sometimes referred to is my own had been living in the United States, but the difference between "Celsius", "Fahrenheit" is a human being on the basis of the temperature sensation you feel in skin temperature. So, we put the meaning of design in my temperature sense. In addition or "A" or was "Tianjin", "Asia" or or "America", after "A-type" in I "Epuriru born" .... Since the "A" there are many in my neighborhood, was named so.
_ Followed by Nakajima?
Than ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA 2014SS collection
Nakajima:My brand is "ATSUSHI NAKASHIMA (Atsushi Nakashima)". The concept is "neo-classic". New ones, have the theme of fusing those good old. Not only to those of Japan, it has been designed to incorporate the classic ones around the world.
_ Esumi's, Nakajima was in the intact brand name his real name, but it is very often in the design industry. Did you like to add your name is, why?
Nakajima:What tradition of design industry. In Europe, everyone is doing in their name to, I also affected because it was working in Paris. However, in Japan, I think that there kana also sell hard to face that it is the brand of the Japanese name. Many Japanese things overseas, also to a certain place where those of Europe are feeling good. In addition, also from people overseas me "what do you read?", It is also to hear. So hard to remember to hard to read, in fact, may not have much merit to the Japanese name (laughs)
_ On the other hand, Mr. Tianjin is is the original brand name, why not?
Tianjin's:Also American designer, is a lot of people are doing in their name. Maybe, I think the lesser also counted more original brand name like me. However, in order to eliminate all of the images in the case of me, I dare I did not use my name. Or man of the woman or of the, where the country of the person to do, such as whether age is a number that's, I think Let face down all. In the absence of extra information, I thought trying to compete only in the works.
It is _ cool.
Tianjin's:Even so ... (laughs)
It is _ 3 people with a common background, but are you rival each other?
Esumi's:I feel that every day, because the face-to-face, is the presence, such as a friend, there is sometimes also a rival. However, It is not heard any thing of the work you're doing is each other, it does not also exchange views on manufacturing.
Tianjin's:Toka Dattari factory Toka dough, you have what kind of event, but to the exchange of information that does not interfere with the work of each other.
Esumi's:So, I do not see what each other is up to the show. So are concentrated in the manufacturing ones of their own, we want to keep out other essence. It is whether that courtesy to other designers .... How about that?
Within the facility atelier of each designer lined
Tianjin's:In the case of me, but color only hear (laughs)
Nakajima:Certainly Tianjin kun I come to hear the color.
Tianjin's:We're living much in the same place, so that I feel is to come similar. Look and magazines and events together coconut, because in a sense color is a trend, there is a place to come like in the world. So, in order not to suffer, everyone will hear how to use what what color.
Nakajima:In the sense that is stimulated to other designers, than the production process, how is stronger after the show was over. Watching a work "that person, good Do are making clothes" or, I also received a stimulus and do not If you do not work hard more.
3 people set up a studio, training facility "cultural fashion incubation" of fashion designer entrance of (Shibuya-ku Sakuragaoka-cho).
To carry out the _1 one of the fashion show, do you draw a design of how much total?
Esumi's:Design picture is painted about 200 to 300 sheets, which make up to finish is about 50-inch. In addition, we feel that the coordination of about 30 to 40 bodies are put out to show from it.
Tianjin's:I do not draw a style to so design drawings. Design, how only those that put on the show.
Nakajima:Since I was also doing a pattern, can image up to three-dimensional. So, with only the design of the already completed form, we have to reduce as much as possible loss.
After you have made the _50-inch, narrow down as if to up production?
Esumi's:To come out of course also those cut in the structure and flow of production, also show about 10, 15 minutes. I get tired watching that it any more. While taking into account the fact to entertain without boring until the end, the show has been put out the best.
Tianjin's:Like I can make about 50 bodies, narrow down to much of which 36 bodies. In fitting, Different image of when the model wearing actually, it goes off more and more. Would you like to color by theme, I feel that we formed a configuration with either the dough.
Nakajima:Overall Dattari balance of color, or was the feel of the fabric. Such as made by that plant, so or was each apart, we decided from looking at the balance last collectively try.
How much people do you have done the clothes making in _? Also, do you have if you are cumene its funds?
Esumi's:In the normal two to three people, you are asked to also help the student's intern. I have the feeling that much happens when four or five people before the show is in and out.
Tianjin's:It is much the same.
Esumi's:Cumene money, the time of the beginning is subject to and support of JFW (Japan Fashion Week) Secretariat, but I had to take care of the show, now is all their own expense.
Nakajima:'m Very, hell!
All :( laughs)
Tianjin's:Because you need to do it is also management while spear front, is really very.
Esumi's:Since the head of the Manufacturing of the designer field, are gradually remember the flow of money while experience. Of course myself as designer but I have a feeling that "the show I want to do", "If take so much money, not it! Does not make sense to do" Given from the management's point of view, such as, while facing dilemma in one of the head we are.
How much _ show the entire budget of the market?
Tianjin's:We of the Do not general or, How about ....
Esumi's:Much roughly 500-6000000. Of course, I think that everyone is if the brand, such as you know, is at stake is more than 10 million yen.
Tianjin's:But I'm doing it kept more (laughs)
And to do _ show, do you sell a product to match?
Tianjin's:Completely different, the show has merely think PR.
Esumi's:Fashion show, for the purpose of publicity towards the press and buyers. Just because I did the show, I do not know if what products were sold. However, in the genre of fashion, it is also possible to apply the money to the place which is not visible, I think it is sometimes important.
Tianjin's:Just if you intend to sell clothes, meaning that the show is we believe that there is little. Now we are told the concept in a way that does not a show, because we have an increasing number of such brand. I was, rather than to sell the clothes in the case of me, such as furniture and space, we believe that the field of the announcement of the order to get the chance of such a variety of design and production.
Nakajima:It is thought of together with the Tianjin-kun. By the show, such as coming to talk, such as domestic and international brand director, we believe it is very important in the sense that broaden their possibilities. Yamamoto Yohji's like, if the aim of the Japanese designers have been successful abroad, because I think that we must after all continue to show. Currently, it is a situation that is hard to look ahead.
Esumi's in the studio that make up the show to the axis of the "knitwear". That 4-5 staff members to enter and exit, including the intern before the show.
For _ everyone, What kind of existence is the "Fashion Week Tokyo"?
Esumi's:10 years ago, my student days, "Tokyo Collection (currently, Fashion Week Tokyo)" in the presence of clouds, was the main stream. Now it is in a position to the show, but has become a more familiar presence.
Nakajima:Young designers us and opportunity to fly out to foreign countries, I think that it has become the prop. And still tough just me, the part that has been helped by the organization, such as JFW is plentifully.
Esumi's:For us designers, it will be given the opportunity of once the show in half a year, rewarding thing I'm very much. To be given that kind of place is, I feel very grateful. However, I think that I wonder if recently has been little changed. The "Fashion Week in Tokyo" to the fashion show also other than subdivided, an increasing number of exhibitions, came out also fast fashion, the presence of the mode fashion than before I feel as weakened.
Tianjin's:After all, how when compared with overseas Fashion Week in Japan, a little weak PR. I think that does not reach to the consumer. Of course, since Fashion Week overseas events of B to B, it does not mean that link consumers and direct. However, still have arrived properly information to the consumer, you will see the situation that has been Roman up. Anyway, is it different do with Japan. So I while belong here, I think that I want to bring to the state, such as the kind of foreign. Does not mean that business, to want to spread the name recognition of a little more, "Fashion Week in Tokyo", want to close the more fashion to the general public.
Nakajima:The other day, I went to "London Fashion Week". In London we have doing by taking a country, after all different from Japan. Everywhere in the in the department store of the screen or the city or have been "London Fashion Week" is notice. Not feeling that rises in the whole city is in Tokyo, I think we need a little more bottom-up. And Do not do to be a little more bedrock.
Esumi's:Certainly London, the flag is not standing in the town and go to Paris, but it has become one of the major festivals.
_ The main venue of “Fashion Week Tokyo” has moved to “ Shibuya Hikarie ” from autumn / winter 2012, and three seasons have passed, but the distance between the atelier and the show venue has become closer and convenience has improved?
Tianjin's:Shibuya Hikarie is the base and it is very easy to do from the atelier to the venue. Even in New York, I'm doing something very close to Maison.
Nakajima:Since Gaultier there is a hole in the house, to the Paris collection was also done in-house. But since only carry on the lower floor, it was able to produce up to the end of the last minute.
Everyone: Ho, in-house.
Esumi's:It was closer in London. Time of London Fashion Week, because the tent is made in the city, where or doing a show, to rent anywhere in the venue is by Maison. Since the size of the city is not as large as Tokyo, roughly feel that gather in the center of the city.
_ Venue than do one, do you good to deploy throughout the city to distribute the venue?
Tianjin's:In Paris, the venue is distributed, I think that period is not caught the city of taxi (laughs)
Esumi's:I wonder if is better dispersed and think about the city of migratory, Do what about?
Tianjin's:Originally, I was also doing in a tent in Paris, have a different thing you want concepts and spear of each brand, there is a history that began to gradually dispersed. But, If you think now of the weakness of Japan's link property, everyone is making a schedule properly, I think is best I'll collect the media and buyers. Since also spread opportunity to get to see a lot of people.
Nakajima:It is hoped that it will be exciting throughout the "city of Shibuya" by being held at Shibuya Hikarie. Let people in Shibuya know more about "Fashion Week Tokyo" and the events that accompany it will also spread.
_ Now, please tell me the theme and attractions of you to announce this time "2014 Autumn-Winter Collection".
From A DEGREE FAHRENHEIT 2014SS collection
Esumi's:Theme to show the day I do not say, but if Moshiagere to the extent that it can be said, is that there is a one by one trick in each of the clothes. Not common in each of the clothes, it contains somewhere in the design. I think and get looking for it and interesting.
Tianjin's:Since I have always been the "temperature" in theme, is the point of interest place called how many of the temperature in this show. Speaking of the past theme, bees gather temperature temperature at which the "bee ball" glass melts "melting point", to freeze at a higher temperature "slow freezing", then the last time Toka temperature of the ink .... I I've been a "black and white" in the main until now, but last time I was betrayed expectations in the sense that may be the whole "orange", this time "multi-colored". Because for the first time a color to the colorful, please to enjoy.
Nakajima:This time use a projection mapping, we want to fusion clothes and digital.
Everyone: Ho, projection mapping
_ Do you project the image on the clothes?
Nakajima:No, not necessarily be mapped to the clothes, we would want to produce by projecting the image on the floor according to the model. In accordance with the image, clothes also has digital printing.
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