Kawaguchi Shibuya cafe Yoko Kogengaku

The history of the cafe rice The birth of "cafe rice"

Cafe rice. Cafe rice.

いずれも10年前には存在しなかった言葉だ。ニューヨークの雑誌媒体から「日本で流行している『カフェごはん』とは、どんなものですか?」という取材を受けたのをきっかけに、2000年〜2008年のカフェごはんの歩みについて考えてみた。

First to have proposed the keyword cafe rice stores it was a cafe special issue was released magazine BRUTUS in 2000. Or toast Speaking meal of traditional coffee shops, or curry, sandwich, pilaf, Neapolitan spaghetti, nationwide common, such as hamburger, mostly orthodox cuisine preferred by young and old, yet is often the case they are frozen food and retort It was. If except in a few boast of curry cafe, who is also I did not expect to make a delicious meal at a coffee shop too much in earnest. (Although as the dish is now evoke the nostalgia "Neapolitan cafe", are a little proudly appeared on the restaurant menu of a variety of business categories)

In recent years the cafe, escape from the frame of the lineup of "the time being satisfy the Kobara" of the coffee shop, or incorporating the eateries of the epidemic of the era, while or affect the other eateries in reverse, and its own cafe rice I went evolved cuisine called.

In the same way as the cafe of definition, even though they speak only as sensuous definition of cafe rice, in the midst of the Tokyo cafe heat became prominent in 2000, what hotels or cafe menu, which played a leading role in the boom but, it became the basis for the cafe rice that many people today is image.

Let's give a typical example of the initial cafe rice.

(1) One plate

Main dishes, side dishes, salads, which was assorted well-color, such as on a single platter with petit desserts, components are almost the same as salad and miso soup with the meal. And the goodness of nutritional balance, are preferred in the beauty of the appearance.
One plate is an ally of working women to eat alone, I think that is closely related to an increase in the meal style called "alone rice". Depending on the cafe, almost all of the customers who visit in the time zone of the meal, there is a thing to see the spectacle of female customers of "you alone sama".

(2) loco moco

Of the coffee shop and diner classic, when one-plated to arrange a hamburger meal in a cafe style, it would not become a Loco Moco? Or prevalent the impact of the recent Hawaiian culture, such as hula, in addition to the basic gray Vee source of, teriyaki sauce, such as a demi-glace sauce, and loco moco a variety of variations are made. And provided in a bowl, a cafe not a few termed a "loco moco bowl".

(3) omelet

This is also folksy classic menu. Omelet appeared that ingenuity for each cafe, was also shops that are to sign menu.

(4) French toast

Speaking of toast of the coffee shop, but it is a straightforward butter toast and cheese toast baked golden brown thick cut bread, speaking of a cafe of toast, dipped a baguette to the egg and milk baked French toast. Maple syrup and honey are served, fresh cream decorated with mint leaves is to raise the visual effects. Served with fruit, such as strawberries and berry, French toast often enjoy Suites tailoring.

Major feature of the Tokyo cafe is that the individual owner has carried out a shop making taking advantage of their own sense. (3rd "Shibuya cafe classification of""The cafe birth driving force behind, quirky individual owners" of the reference)

Interior and music, of course, because the taste of the individual also to coffee or drink and food has been strongly reflected, "what the owner wanted to eat," "what you think the owner is delicious" is made in the cafe of the kitchen, customers It will be carried into the groove of the table. As a result, the menu lined with a variety of cuisine regardless of the genre is to, from one dish was a staple of coffee shops for a long time and that the Japanese shop, Italian, ethnic, and dishes such as tavern, coexist without causing much discomfort Became.

Cafe's was Mise been broken without any awareness that it willfully Kuzuso is not just interior style. To break even fence of the genre of cooking, I tongue of passengers has to be able to navigate freely. And, in the same space, there are people if you that there are people reading over a cup of coffee by himself, with a glass of wine in a group, and red wine stew of beef, which the pizza, are enjoying a raw spring rolls together .

Cafe rice to evolve

The appearance of the galette rear

At the time in 2000 just cafes began to walk, the word cafe rice, at the same time that there was a fresh and charming sound, even the bad image that cheap food of children's play was Tsuitemawa' unfortunately fact.

Then, after the flow of maturity from the cafe of the fixing of the countless cafes of the flood → selection → city, the level of taste greatly improve. At present, when open their own shop to independent chef was studying in French and Italian shops, appealing to be able to expand their world in a more free style, dare, such as that you have selected the form of a cafe There is also, a growing number also a cafe that provides a restaurant and in no way inferior cuisine.

Cafe menu is, the change from season to season, of course, is often changed significantly when the alternative is chef at the heart.

Gained popularity, for example, as a hideaway existenceZarigani CafeIn the year 2000 at the time menu, it had lined up, such as: cooking.

  • Grilled eggplant and minced meat of rice plate
  • Gratin of Kanimiso
  • Gratin of Kanimiso

In the current eight years later, only those that do not see any.

Also, mature owner favorite with the passage of time, sometimes it is reflected in the cafe menu. For example, it was opened in 1999Cafe ApuremidiIs a protagonist of a classic cuisine is food menu that is familiar to everyone, such as "chicken and mushrooms of mild curry" and "pizza of Gorgonzola, Gruyere, mozzarella," but, the owner was opened after three yearsApuremidi Grand CruCelebrated a staff that has been active in the popular French store in the kitchen, to the adult specification stocked with food and wine of the restaurant and bistro class.

"Supaishichiri rice" of ANTENNA

It was a pioneer of sophisticated sum cafeANTENNAIt is, incorporating elements of the sum to all of the menu from the original open in 2002, had come up with personality. For example, it has gained a good reputation "Supaishichiri rice". It generally used Garubanzo and kidney beans in Chile but, dare use a soybean that has been popular since ancient times in Japan. Others, those using traditional ingredients of Japan, such as "cool Gomajiru Somen," "steamed bread flour" is arranged in menu, pleasing fresh Japanese-style arrangement cuisine.

"Sandwich L'Occitane" L'Occitane cafe

Then, in response to the increasing awareness of our health and the environment, a cafe to stick to macrobiotic and organic also it has increased. 2008, French natural cosmeticsL'OccitaneThe flagship store in the hotel has been a cafe, a cafe which is the same brand of the world's first appearance shop. Offering food and sweets that incorporate such ingredients that can identify the organic ingredients and locality information.

At the same time, the pancake specialty cafes, such as the galette professional cafe, also has attracted the attention cafe focused on one theme. Shibuya of long-established presence inAu Temps JadisBut but has been popular as a shop where you can enjoy a galette of the home, the birth specialty shops Garrett rear listed the galette + trattoria in the same Shoto area in 2008. Tangled with ivy House is boost the home Brittany of the atmosphere of the galette. Cafe rice will continue, probably continue to change with fashion and the link of the city.

Galette rear "galette"

■ profile

Yoko Kawaguchi

Yoko Kawaguchi (Yoko Kawaguchi) writer, essayist.
Hitachi City, Ibaraki Prefecture was born. Living in Tokyo than in college. Cafe visited in the middle of the walk and the journey up for more than hotels 800. Web site by Samantha of pseudonym by Takaji a hobby from the end of 1999"Tokyo cafe mania"It presided over. Series in essay and cafes of the recipes in magazines and each Web site. In July 2008 - it was published as a book than "café and a vessel of the journey the new form of the sum" Aoyama publisher.

■ bookCafé and a vessel of the journey - a new sum form of (Aoyama publisher)
Rooftop cafe floor (Shoshi TadashiTadashibo)
Tokyo lunch Revolution co-authored (Tokyo Shoseki)
Book of tea - cafe style Tenshin Okakura "The Book of Tea" (Kadokawa Shoten), etc.


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