Shibuya culture PROJECT

　街角で耳にする音には、街の個性がそのまま表れていると思う。渋谷の街頭はいつも躁状態。ほかのどんな繁華街に較べても、群を抜いて大量の音楽と声とノイズに溢れている。ハチ公前交差点に立つたびに、なぜか「耳栓をしたい」というよりも「耳にマスクをしたい！」という衝動が押し寄せてくる。
In from the landed to Shibuya Station to get to near a quiet cafe in the Tokyu department store head office, I wonder exactly how much the sound of forced to come in both ears? December One day, we think a modest experiment, I tried to walk the Shibuya while recording the streets of sound in the hands of the IC recorder.

　通りをほんの数歩進んでいくだけで音の風景はめまぐるしく変化する。街の地図の上に、音の種類とヴォリュームごとに色を塗り分けてサウンドスケープ・マップをつくったら、混沌の中からなにかの図柄が浮かび上がってきたりはしないだろうか。
While buying or eating and drinking with him and Futari, the next street course that walked about three hours. The last number that was added to the hear've volume that try to quantify as up to 100. Last sensuous, but he personal numbers.

(1) from Shibuya Station ticket gate Hachiko Previous intersection: 98
(2) Q front of Starbucks: 50 → 100
(3) to walk the city center, turn right to the Inokashira Street to HMV: 98 → 90
(4) ZERO GATE of de Ritz et Folie et Gelato Cafe: 30
(5) Tokyu Hands from the alley toward the Tokyu department store district: 20 → 80 → 20
(6) Cafe Mamehiko: 20
(7) from Koen-dori to BEAMS street, and to the crayfish Cafe: 40 → 20 → 40
(8) from Inokashira street back to the center city to the front of Shibuya Station: 40 → 70

　この日、渋谷の大型レコードショップのエントランスは全て桑田佳祐の『ダーリン』発売記念イベントにジャックされていた。そのせいなのだろうか、意外にもクリスマスソングは東急ハンズの売り場の他では全く耳にせず。12月の街角を染め上げていたのは“70年代の日本歌謡曲に対するオマージュ”であるという失恋ソングの新曲だった。
予想通りだったことといえば、最高の耳的ヒーリング空間のひとつがカフェであること。予想していなかったことは、午後8時〜9時台にさまざまなショップが閉店時間を迎えたあと、音の風景が大きく変化すること。
So, we will go to the world of swirling colorful sound!

(1) from Shibuya Station ticket gate Hachiko Previous intersection: 98

　12月の土曜日、午後7時。ごったがえす駅の改札口を出て、ハチ公前交差点で信号待ちをする。
Every sound in this scramble intersection also has become scrambled state. Large volume of advertising music that huge vision of the wall surface of the total of four buildings to be built facing the intersection flow to each. Rhythm nor melody lyrics, stirred lose the meaning and form to, just continue to spread in the air.
Even the music is like human beings, forced at once multiple songs, yet should feel the pain Once or be heard by a terrible sound. When you are standing here, maybe a lot of people must have turned off automatically the switch of the ear.
This screen's right is suppressed to below a certain volume by the regulations of Shibuya, but there seems to those that are automatically set to turn up the volume so as not to lose the noise when it comes to the many times of traffic.
Mobile phone suddenly someone behind began to sound the melody of electronic sound. Advancing a few steps, yet another of the music has been superimposed. I man of the duo in front of the statue is a live performance. But this in the hustle and bustle I think the minute too long and almost drowned out, such as the sound of the shamisen is bad, be so that the duo does not care. They are than that to listen to music to come and go people, we might have found a meaning to the very act to play here. If Keisuke Kuwata will say what and to them?

(2) Q front of Starbucks: 50 → 100

　交差点を渡ってスターバックスに入ると、注文カウンターの前には6、7人の行列ができていた。フロアはTSUTAYAとスターバックスで分け合っており、TSUTAYAのBGMが大きなヴォリュームで流れている。
Starbucks clerk us, induction of before checkout crowded oyster. Wait quick menu to our customers all that has been handed, matrix proceed smoothly. This store because of the congestion mitigation, are unified all the drink size in the tall size.
What we ordered the gingerbread latte seasonal. Try to ask the female staff while the payment.
"This will do a kind of taste?"
"Well, here it is I, Orimashi contains powder and cinnamon of dry ginger, with a little bit spicy, is perfect for the Christmas season!"
Description and smile, thank you. In fact, though he sometimes drank before, or staff us to what answering is a small fun, I would ask each time.
Receive a gingerbread latte, wrapped in a large sound as soon as came to the pavement from another exit. TSUTAYA shop lined with staff of, I new song released campaign of Keisuke Kuwata has been carried out. Hit the ear from the CD of the singing voice is just off the speaker.
At a later date, as a result of the inquiry to the union office of the Center Gai, but do so in each store have a strict care to lower the volume, and stand directly over-the-counter visited by promotion person in charge of each company, VOLUME increases things might be apt.

(3) to walk the city center, turn right to the Inokashira Street to HMV: 98

　センター街の入口ゲートにはクリスマスのイルミネーションが輝いている。この地点では、2つのビルのマルチビジョンと、TSUTAYA店頭のキャンペーンと、センター街に林立する明るい街灯に取り付けられたスピーカーから流れる音楽が入り乱れて、耳に宣伝合戦を仕掛けてくる。
And how sound is standing for a while and want to make sure whether the most dominant of, street lights of the city center, was between the fit of the music begins to conduct an announcement in the woman's voice. Previously, not the announcement of that has been repeated frequently "Let's note the malicious catch sales", notice to the driver about the entry ban of the vehicle. The street lamp broadcasting has been utilized in the promotion of their respective companies and artists, it seems announcement is sandwiched on, such as crime prevention and fire fighting from the center city union in the meantime.
And a human emits voice, a combination of words that take draw meaning the power to capture the ear was stronger. On top of the J-POP battle that is no longer know the reason to cancel each other, the voice of this woman is reigning. All of the location of the center city, and this announcement heard in Inokashira street is what seems to have given a unified sense of neighborhood of the chaotic state. For its meaning, perhaps even to have been deaf ears almost perfect.
Each in front of the center town of female underwear shop and large home appliances retailers stood a clerk, had a barker in a loud voice. Uncle is in charge of the suit is more of underwear shop, a young woman in charge was lowered from the neck of the megaphone is more of a consumer electronics retailer.
Is're passing a flashy music towards the street, drugstore, CD sales wagon, mobile phone sales shop karaoke box, obsession Manga Kissa ...... like "customer If you do not insist on loud sound does not enter." as if it is evicted to. In the center street union secretariat, but that so is to stop the music on the spot for a large store of extremely VOLUME but.
And take a good, long look at, the speaker of BOSE is installed after the goods piled up towards the pavement. After this, when I walked in looking for a speaker that is directed to the outside of the store, about a lot of shops amazed had established the outward speaker of street appeal only under the eaves. BOSE Corp. also aligned set to boot. I empire of small BOSE has been built in the Shibuya. Since the center city of streetlights speakers there was a JBL logo, here might be to form a network here.
HMV large Christmas tree in the over-the-counter. However, the flows is not a Christmas song, TSUTAYA Similarly Keisuke Kuwata singing. It was What is in the new song released campaign here.

(4) ZERO GATE of de Ritz et Folie et Gelato Cafe: 30

　HMVの斜め前のビルの壁面にも、『ダーリン』の流れる大型ビジョンが！　いま、この曲を聞かずに渋谷を歩くことはできないらしい。
While retaining the eye that has been working the center city of streetlights + speakers even in this area, and a little rest, he entered the DELIZIEFOLLIE (de Ritz et Folie d), which opened in the ZERO GATE in November this year. Japan's first landing store gelato cafe Sicilian-born prestigious gelato craftsmen was successful in Paris. Take is not even remember this name to tell many times.
On top of the Zurarito lined gelato variety in the showcase, give off an aura of fascination is accompanied by colorful fruit sliced. Landed from the United States, if even that sings clerk we call de Stone Creamery that buzz to it's entertainment-based ice cream, de Ritz et Folie picture visual system gelato.
Too much in doubt with which one tries to order, I forgot all about BGM. But recorded IC recorder later heard Why do not you sound that it can not be said that never quiet was full, would amazed myself to be in front of the showcase did not become at all care about. Subjective sense of how much you feel annoying ambient sound, whether those arbitrary realize.

(5) from Tokyu Hands, to the pathway towards the Tokyu department store district: 20 → 80 → 20

　各ショップがあいかわらずスピーカーで激しく自己主張してくる井の頭通りを進んでいき、東急ハンズに入ったとたん、ほどよい静けさに包まれてほっとした。買い物客の姿は多いのだけれど、控えめなBGMに耳が癒されて、透明な耳マスクを外してもいいと感じる。
Here, buy a cone-shaped dripper dedicated paper filter coffee. After the Christmas tree of the shelf is placed is something like a thin mini component, had shed the Christmas song. The only standard Christmas music that was on this day ear.
Once in the alley toward from the front to the Tokyu head office direction of Tokyu Hands, per changes to suddenly darkened quiet atmosphere. On both sides of the alley like dining bar are scattered, but frown as much to the hustle and bustle becomes his footsteps coming into the ear to clear. Cat from the gloom has been catapulted one animal, across the front of us.

(6) Cafe Mamehiko: 20

　午後8時、目的のカフェに到着。三軒茶屋で人気を集めるCafe Mame-Hico（カフェ・マメヒコ）が今年秋に出店した渋谷店だ。店内は広いのだけれど、静謐という言葉がふさわしい落ち着きとやすらぎに満ちている。
Since always BGM in the Cafe Mamehiko does not enter the ear, this shop but I was mistaken that it is silence, Whisper of the Heart is faintly jazz flow. In passing to order, I asked about the BGM to politely warm woman manager's.
"I noticed today for the first time BGM, do you always kind of music to flow?"
"This morning is mainly over the baroque music. It is often classical and jazz from the afternoon to late into the night. The song is not chosen by the president in every season, only a little more to and why Christmas song of Tatsuro Yamashita is one song I or mixed. How can you think the joke I wonder if the president (laughs) "
But so it is also received in an indication as to flow in a little more large volume,
"Because our staff is what is exposed all day to music, and tired to music, volume has been suppressed."
Also for the same music tired was my ear, VOLUME be saved. We were able to enjoy not every heart has been eventually carried to the table as "Mamepiko" and "Hamlet". Better of him is red wine and chili beans.
Cafe Mamehiko is the beans, a traditional food of Japan, pleasing delicious tailored to fresh Western dishes. Especially wonderful were using the beans to the local cuisine galette of Brittany "Mameretto". Announcing a new menu of "Hamlet" is, its a thick ham made from commitment whey pig on top of the Mameretto, rich cheese, crispy To savory baked dish topped with egg taste.
"Mamepiko" more of to steer the soy milk and the milk was further added to the "secret of the drink," says store manager's, refreshing drink of taste similar to Lassie. I wonder if the key is not perhaps of lurking around the "pin" to solve the secret.
Tummy also ear also looked the store where you are satisfied, we found the figure of our customers to be reading with the earphones. Since the characters in the pages of a book you are reading are arranged in a vertical, also is not likely mean that in the study of English. For those who want to soak in their own space, even in a quiet cafe that can release the ear with peace of mind, it might be your own sound is preferred.

(7) from Koen-dori to BEAMS street, and to the crayfish Cafe: 40 → 20 → 40

　時刻は午後9時。公園通りを抜け、BEAMSなどのショップが立ち並ぶ通りを歩いていくと、ほとんどすべてのショップがすでに閉店していた。店内に明かりはついているものの、エントランスにはClosedの札が出ている。人通りもまばらで、透明耳マスクはまったく必要がない。
From CCLemon Hall before the intersection, through the bottom of the Ginkgo trees began to leaf litter and colored to Zarigani Cafe (crayfish Cafe). This area is also a pleasant tranquility.
The 仄暗 have the store in the music is slightly larger VOLUME, still have flow to such an extent that does not interfere with the conversation, has given one of the atmosphere to the relaxed air of the store. Charm of this space and time, I think those that do not exist without music. Quit that my ear is a passive, trying to listen to actively sound.
The time of accounting, I asked and what kind of genre music of that many in the male staff.
"It is is Regeedabu is flowing now, because BGM is put what you like the staff that entered the day rotation,'m often take a more pop songs. I'm sorry, what sound is greater?"
No, it was a very good feeling, a few drops of rain After leaving the cafe to say, was hit on the cheek. To return to hurry Shibuya Station.

(8) from Inokashira street back to the center city to the front of Shibuya Station: 40 → 70

　午後10時、人通りはまだまだ多いものの、センター街全体の宣伝音楽量は驚くほど減少していた。そう、渋谷の音の風景は、時間帯によって大きく変貌するのだ。街灯のスピーカーもすでに沈黙していた。ドラッグストアも衣料品店もレコードショップも歌うのをやめ、唯一、地下へと続く階段から重低音を響かせていたのはレゲエ系のバーのみ。
Oh, always When was this much, fleeting also was thought ...... to walk not frustrated, and come back to Hachiko intersection, multi-vision group was still continues to sing.

■ profile

Yoko Kawaguchi (Yoko Kawaguchi) writer, essayist.
Hitachi City, Ibaraki Prefecture was born. Living in Tokyo than in college. Cafe visited in the middle of the walk and the journey up for more than hotels 800. 1999 Web site under the pseudonym of Samantha and hobby Takaji from the end of the year "Tokyo Cafe Mania』を主宰。雑誌や各Webサイトでエッセイやカフェのレシピを連載中。2007年10月31日に『本のお茶〜カフェスタイル岡倉天心』を角川書店より書籍として刊行。

To List